8 Days in Japan

Nishi Hogan-ji and Toji Temple

It's been a wonderful couple of days in Kyoto, despite the persistent downpour that consumed most of Thursday.

Undeterred, we grabbed umbrellas and paid visits to both the Nishi Hongan-ji and Toji Temples. Kyoto's an easy, walkable town. It's only got two subway lines and a very intricate bus system. But we lucked out that our hotel was about 15- to 20-minutes from both temples.

The Nishi Hongan-ji is the largest school of a type of Buddhism practiced in the region, Jodo Shinsu. Here's a pic of the main or Founders Hall:

It's an amazing piece of architecture. Originally constructed in the 1600s, the current building dates from the 1760s. Bob and I walked through both halls, but it was in the Buddha Hall that we happened upon something very wonderful.

We were only there about 10 minutes when the beautiful chandelier and the other main lights were turned off. Then a group of eight elderly men and women were brought to the front of the alter and three priests in dark blue robes came out and proceeded to lead them in a recitation of sorts.

As a former alter boy, it all seemed very familiar. There was the use of small items, fans and such to bestow certain blessings, one of the priests led a kind of call-and-response portion of the ceremony, and the congregants wore long, thin shawls around their necks.(No, I didn't take any pictures, it seemed kind of rude.)

Finally, another obviously more senior priest in a beautiful orange robe came out and led the congregation in another final round of prayers. Then, he took one of the items, what looked like a long lacquer wand, and he walked behind each of the congregants, tapping them on the head and reciting a prayer or dedication of sorts.

The ritual lasted about 20 minutes and when it was done, the eight elderly Japanese packed up their belongings and left. As the lights came back up we asked one of the priests what just happened. We had lucked out and arrived in time to see a these people receive the Buddhist name.

Very cool. And a wonderful respite from a rainy afternoon. It was nice to sit in the comfort of this ancient building and witness something which I guess could be described as sacred. The ceremony reminded me less of the Catholic confirmation ritual and more like the Stations of the Cross on Good Friday or even a very ornate funeral ceremony.

Earlier that day we had visited the Toji Temple, it's known for it pagoda which has become the symbol of Kyoto.

This too had two wonderful grand halls, and the statuary of Buddhas and kings and other sacred beings was impressive. No photos allowed, but I did get the complete postcard set. (Why take bad pics when professionals can do it for you!)